ZOSicK
November 5th, 2003, 04:41 PM
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car7.JPG
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car8.JPG
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car10.JPG
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car11.JPG
this is a setup that a guy did on his LS1
First off, the most important goal is not to harm my car. This whole project has only required cutting one wire, and that was for the radio antenna control (wired a vert' rocker switch.) If I want to, I can have a totally stock car again with the exception of that one cut wire, which can be re-spliced. Like I said, this is just a teaser. I'll be posting more pictures tonight, and should be 90% finished by this weekend. That thing you see between the back seats is my bottle mount. It is made of aluminum and is held together with stainless phillips-head bolts. I finished it by brushing it. It is designed so that I can still let my back seat down, if necessary. The bottle bracket (that "block" with the holes that is attached to the mount) is machined aluminum, which I ordered from a machine shop in Cali. The rest of the bracket is attached to the bottle, obviously. (I'll have more pictures later, then you'll understand how it works.) I hand cut my switch pannel from thin brushed aluminum stock. It has five toggle switches with red LEDs in the tips, which light up when the switch is in the on position (IE UP). Switch one is main nitrous power, with an annoying buzzer wired in so that I can't accidentally leave the system on. With only the main switch on, only the first stage is allowed to activate. Switch two allows for both stages to activate. Switch three is purge control. Switch four is bottle heater. Switch five is light control (lets me turn off running lights). Those three things in in the upper right hand corner are indicator LEDs. The top one is a green LED, which lights with successful nitrous activation. The two bottom ones are red, and give me O2 Bank 1 and 2 status information. (I have two lean detection units, one on each bank, as an added safety precaution.)
:bigok:
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car8.JPG
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car10.JPG
http://webpages.uah.edu/~clarkw/pictures/car11.JPG
this is a setup that a guy did on his LS1
First off, the most important goal is not to harm my car. This whole project has only required cutting one wire, and that was for the radio antenna control (wired a vert' rocker switch.) If I want to, I can have a totally stock car again with the exception of that one cut wire, which can be re-spliced. Like I said, this is just a teaser. I'll be posting more pictures tonight, and should be 90% finished by this weekend. That thing you see between the back seats is my bottle mount. It is made of aluminum and is held together with stainless phillips-head bolts. I finished it by brushing it. It is designed so that I can still let my back seat down, if necessary. The bottle bracket (that "block" with the holes that is attached to the mount) is machined aluminum, which I ordered from a machine shop in Cali. The rest of the bracket is attached to the bottle, obviously. (I'll have more pictures later, then you'll understand how it works.) I hand cut my switch pannel from thin brushed aluminum stock. It has five toggle switches with red LEDs in the tips, which light up when the switch is in the on position (IE UP). Switch one is main nitrous power, with an annoying buzzer wired in so that I can't accidentally leave the system on. With only the main switch on, only the first stage is allowed to activate. Switch two allows for both stages to activate. Switch three is purge control. Switch four is bottle heater. Switch five is light control (lets me turn off running lights). Those three things in in the upper right hand corner are indicator LEDs. The top one is a green LED, which lights with successful nitrous activation. The two bottom ones are red, and give me O2 Bank 1 and 2 status information. (I have two lean detection units, one on each bank, as an added safety precaution.)
:bigok: